Lucky In The Lowthers With (Dawn and Me)

The Lowther Hills are Howgill(ish) hills lying roughly and a bit emptily between the M74 and the A76, approximately between Moffat and Sanquhar. There’s forestry, grouse moors and steep-sided rounded grassy hills. Nothing too exciting, except for those who get excited by empty places.

So, we went to Sanquhar. It was grey and drizzly and driech, so we didn’t get too far on the first afternoon, specially since the rain was getting it’s act together. We camped a few miles up (or down?) the Southern Upland Way by a small beck – the Bog Burn. We had a rain-spatterred but otherwise quiet and peaceful night.

In the morning (Wednesday) , we continued through the drizzle and hill-fog along the Southern Upland Way which had been partially and a bit irritatingly diverted for “Lambing”. On the way, me and LTD did short diversions for the bagging of handy Tumps. By the time we were approaching Wanlockhead, the mere seven or eight miles we’d walked was beginning to feel like a lot more.

So we had tea outside the visitor centre – because they wouldn’t let the dog inside..

We camped high on the slopes of Lowther Hill, on a grassy little platform by the path from the Enterkin Burn. It was a cosy and pleasant spot, apart from the slight tilt which had me and LTD in a lump at the bottom of the tent on a couple of occasions. LTD suggested that I belay myself to something but couldn’t suggest how this might be acheived.

Thursday was the day for the bagging of Steygail, a Hump, sub-Marilyn and all-round shapely hillock on the other side of Lowther Hill. We used the service road to get up to the top by the radar station and launched off over lovely, grassy hills to discover that Steygail was defended by grass at a general angle that grass shouldn’t be and that there was just a bit less than 500 feet of “up” to get “up”. This proved to be a challenge, what with the big pack.

And then, once up, there was the simple matter of an 1100 foot thigh-destroying descent to a pickernick table where me and LTD brewed coffee in antici……………pation of Dawn’s arrival. I suspect quite strongly that Dawn didn’t really enjoy this bit.. !

Onwards and sideways because it wasn’t too far to a nice camping spot, particularly if we gloss over the huge, deep and steep ravine that was in the way. However, with much effort, a wet bum on my part and a small laceration ro a pinky, plus much groaning, moaning and heaving, we found ourselves on the correct side of this cavernous slit.

The camp by the Auchenlowe Burn, on what appeared to be small dwelling platforms, was specially nice. And the sun came out.

Friday was a bit brighter and we wandered more easily down Glenim and across the Mennock Pass to follow the intake wall (at a distance) across the fell to rejoin the Southern Upland Way back into Sanquhar.

 

My previous visit to this area, back in April 2009 had ended in a desperate evacuation in a blizzard following a stormy night in the depths of Glendyne and it was interesting to discover that had I followed the burn downhill a bit, I would have come across a fine and sheltered flat camping spot with an easier exit than I’d had that breezy April night.  Dhuhh…

We had four hours to wait in Sanquhar and, on the advice of a local butcher, who came out of his shop to talk to Lucky, we spent the time in the lounge bar of the Glendyne Hotel which had more room for dogs and rucksacks than the cosy but crowded public bar. And then there was the opportunity to rehydrate after al that hot weather [koff]

There’s a direct train to Sanquhar from Newcastle, making it specially quick to get there. And the Lowthers provide some really exceptional and quiet hillwalking and backpacking. I should go more often. Once every seven years is probably not enough.

LTD liked it too.

Going Pots in Swinhope Pots

Following an overdose of sugar-based treats provided by Mrs Pieman, I took some of my grandkids to Swinhope in Weardale to have a look at some holes in the ground based on a faulty theory that some cold weather, the potential to fall into some water and a bit of exercise on some boggy tussocks might calm them down a bit.

We looked at the lead mine (just inside – no dangerous explorations)

We searched for shiny rocks and found quite a lot

We explored a large number of shakeholes, all in a line. I think there were about a dozen and a half. #1 grandchild counted 57.

Two of these appeared to have potholes in them and a reference to a really old copy of Northern Caves Volume Five: The Northern Dales reveals that they’re called Swinhope Pots and are 30 feet deep. Its a good job we didn’t get right in there.

Muddied and semi-calm, we visited Chatterbox cafe in St Johns Chapel where hot chocolates with cream and mini marshmallows plus apple and blackberry crumbles with vanilla ice-creams were consumed. This replenished the blood-sugar levels a treat. This may have been an error of judgement on my part.

Dhuhh….

chatterbox  (click the link for the doggy and grand-sprog friendly chatterbox cafe)

Oh yes, and we saw some frogs as well..

Teesdale Fellwalking

This post is mainly pictures from Wednesday’s 11 mile guided walk from Bowlees over Crosthwaite Fell.  It was sunny, it rai9ned, it hailed and it snowed. The group had 16 people and a small dog (Bailey)

There’s a previous post about the reccy.

We might do this again next year. Or we might give it a rest in favour of something else – it’s the fourth time we’ve done this walk…

Cheviots–Around Breamish

Dawn came up with this flexible/extendable/shortenable (is that a word?) route which was Just The Thing for building up a bit of mileage prior to our Beer Trekkin trek where a few of the days are a bit long.

So we set off from the parking area at Hartside Farm which is as far as you’re allowed to drive unless your going to a party at Linhope. Or you’re a postman. Or something.

And we trundled past Alnhammoor , South Pike, aka Shepherds Cairn and the very dog-noisy Ewartly Shank. LTD quite enjoyed the barking competition at Ewartly Shank.  We followed the Salters Road over the Big Lump back into the Breamish Valley to High Bealkhope and on up to High Cantlle.

Dawn’s original route had us heading over Comb Fell and Hedgehope Hill with a possible further (even further) extension which I only vaguely understood. (When I’m a follower, I tend to just follow, rather than get too involved in route decisions or, even map-reading)

It was here, though, that given the extensive view which had opened up on the clearing of the murky haze we’d had so far, that Hedgehope Hill did appear to be a long, long way away. So we headed for Linhope instead where there was rumoured to be an interesting Spout or waterfall. On the way, I mentioned that Ritto Hill, which was beckoning to me to be climbed, was probably a Tump and even more probablier on my List of Things To Climb. So we bagged it. It was fairly easy nad provided a cracking view of the upper reaches of the Breamish.

Linhope Spout was very nice too and, it would seem, has some camping spots, judging by the three fire pits on the flat bit.

A short road walk finished it all off.

We did a bit over 12 miles with 2200 feet of ascent which was just hard enough for a) my winter legs and b) building up a bit of fitness for longer days next month.

Guided Walk Recce Up Teesdale

Before anybody leads a guided walk for Durham County Council, they’re supposed to do a reccy.
I’m leading a guided walk next Wednesday (6 April) from Bowlees so yesterday, me and LTD did a reccy.
It was sunny but , frankly, nithering.


The walk is 11 miles and starts at 10:00 sharp and the route is from Bowlees, over The Wobbly Bridge and up to Holwick Scars and thenh over Crosthwaite Fell to join the Pennine Way at Wythes Hill Farm which is followed back through Middleton and alongside the river back to Bowlees.

The views are crackin. There’s lots of friendly contours which are good for the heart, a few brave wild flowers, lots of lapwings, curlew, snipe, meadow pipits and skylarks; some lambs, an exciting (not very exciting) beck crossing and some more cracking views as well as good, friendly conversation and a hot cuppa at the end for those who venture into the cafe at Bowlees. And all for Four Quid.


Despite the sign on the gate on the PW at Low Force, the walk is both non-smoking AND warm clothing advised, specially if it’s as chilly as it was yesterday.

Seems unlikely that in these temperatures, that many people will be taking advantage of this. Apparently it’s one of seven such paths created on sections of England’s LDP’s to bring them up to the same standard of similar nature (!) trails in Germany. – I’m not sure what the other ones are, but I’m told that most of the Cheviot border ridge is included and Black Hill in the south Pennines, plus bits of the South and North Downs Way and the South West coastal path.  Does anybody know anything about this?